Zuni Diamond Twill Manta

Date1870-1890

MediumWool (fabric), indigo

Dimensions40 1/2 × 47 1/2 in. (102.9 × 120.7 cm)

ClassificationsTextile, Fiber Arts, & Beadwork

Credit LineAlbuquerque Museum, museum purchase, 1997 General Obligation Bonds

Object numberPC2001.54.1

DescriptionZuni manta or wearing blanket, 1870-1890. Blue and black wool, diagonal and diamond twill, dyed indigo blue and natural brown (almost black) wool, not overdyed.

Attributions:
Tom Begner: Seller. Ends and selvage are diamond twill in indigo. Center is natural brown diagonal twill. Definitely not churro. Rambouillet wool would go back into the 1870's-1880's; it's definitely not as late as 1890, otherwise it would be denser like the Pueblo weavings in the Dewey Gallery, not as fine, priced at $3500-$5500.

David Irving. According to the Begners, is one of the top two collectors of Pueblo weavings in the country. Knows the former owner, Chuck Arnold, and is familiar with the piece. "Probably 1870's, attributed to Zuni based on the looseness/softness of the weave. No reason it couldn't be 1840-1850, or as late as 1900."

Mark Bahti: (as described) "Given condition, you have a gem there. I rarely hear of them coming on the market."

Marian Rodee: "Maybe a girl's dress or a boy's manta. Not churro, more kinky like rambouillet. Could be as early as 1890 or as late as 1910. Need to test to determine for sure that it's indigo, as aniline can look like indigo."

Deb Slaney & Marilee Schmit Nason: Weft and warp are single ply, Z-twist. Cords, tassels, and selvedges are 2-ply S-spun, Z-twist.

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